It's been almost half a century since I first went to Croatia, part of Yugoslavia in those days. 

Shipped off for the summer to my parents' hinterland region of Lika (home of Plitvice Lakes National Park), I've been back dozens of times since.

I've seen it change from a sleepy corner of the Adriatic into one of Europe's most alluring holiday hotspots. 

But as tourist numbers swell - there were 21.3million visitors in 2024 - it's crucial to know where to go in this country with a 1,000-mile coastline. 

After decades of visits and having written numerous books on Croatia, here are my all-time favourites.

Dreamy in Rab

Prefer sandy beaches to the usual pebbly and rocky ones you find in Croatia? 

Head to the tiny island of Rab in the Kvarner Gulf and choose from two dozen sandy coves.

Mary Novakovich (pictured above Hvar Town) has been visiting Croatia for half a century. She reveals her favourite spots – and a few to avoid in the summer months

Rab Town is one of Croatia's dreamiest - a medieval, Renaissance and Venetian mishmash of narrow marble lanes topped with its distinctive skyline of four church towers 

Rab Town is one of Croatia's dreamiest - a medieval, Renaissance and Venetian mishmash of narrow marble lanes topped with its distinctive skyline of four church towers.

MY TIP: Come during Rabska Fjera, Croatia's biggest and oldest medieval festival, which takes place every July 25-27 and features huge beach barbecues and street parties.

BOOK IT: Seven nights at Hotel International from £1,132pp B&B including flights and transfers (sunvil.co.uk).

Hiking and biking in Mljet 

Come to Dubrovnik and chances are you'll nip over to Mljet on a day trip. 

But Croatia's greenest island deserves more than just a few hours. 

About a third of it is taken up by the Mljet National Park, whose tree-shaded hiking and biking trails wind around two saltwater lakes. 

Take the little boat to the island monastery of St Mary in the larger lake.

Come to Dubrovnik and chances are you'll nip over to Mljet on a day trip. But Croatia's greenest island deserves more than just a few hours

Daredevils can follow the rocky path on Mljet's southern coast to Odysseus's Cave and dive off the cliffs into the vividly blue water (np-mljet.hr).

MY TIP: Hike to the top of the national park's Mount Montokuc at 256m for the best panoramic views.

BOOK IT: Seven nights half-board at Hotel Odisej from £689pp including flights and transfers (jet2holidays.com).

Rovinj, the 'Venice of Croatia'

You might do a double-take when entering the tiny peninsula that's home to Rovinj's old town - as it's a dead ringer for Venice, across the Adriatic Sea in Italy. 

Rovinj is exquisite, with pastel-coloured houses on cobbled lanes winding upwards towards the baroque church and belltower of St Euphemia. 

MY TIP: Take the ten-minute boat shuttle from the harbour to St Katarina island and its secluded beach. 

BOOK IT: Seven nights at Grand Park Hotel Rovinj from £1,284pp B&B including flights and transfers (sovereign.com).

You might do a double-take when entering the tiny peninsula that's home to Rovinj's old town - as it's a dead ringer for Venice, across the Adriatic Sea in Italy

Lovely Losinj Island

Losinj in the Kvarner Gulf was a favourite of the 19th century Austrian emperor Franz Joseph, who turned this herb-covered island into his summer playground.

Admire the pretty sea captains' houses along the ports of the two main villages, Mali Losinj and Veli Losinj, and rent a bike to cycle along pine-backed trails that run around much of the island. 

Stop in Cikat Bay for numerous beaches, hotels and restaurants along its wonky coast, breathing in heady scents of pine. 

MY TIP: Drive to the hilltop Providenca lookout and restaurant for gorgeous views. 

BOOK IT: Seven nights at Hotel Bellevue from £1,640pp B&B including flights, ferry crossing to Losinj and car hire (completelycroatia.co.uk), or on it's own at £185 per night (Booking.com).

Charm of Korcula

Korcula town, surrounded by walls on its own peninsula, is like a mini Dubrovnik but without the crowds. 

Korcula town, surrounded by walls on its own peninsula, is like a mini Dubrovnik but without the crowds

Its narrow lanes fan out like a fishbone, which keeps the air flowing during hot summer days.

Visit the beaches tucked into deep harbours along the southern coast, particularly Žitna and Pupnatska Luka. 

Vela Luka on the western end of Korcula is the gateway to other Dalmatian islands including Hvar, Vis and Lastovo. 

MY TIP: Visit the family-run wineries including Zure and Bire in the fishing village of Lumbarda and taste crisp dry white, grown only in this village (zure.hr, bire.hr). 

BOOK IT: Seven nights at Aminess Liburna Hotel from £628pp B&B including flights and transfers (tui.co.uk).

Zip off to Zagreb

Croatia's elegant capital takes the best of central European traditions - particularly café culture and stately baroque architecture - and adds a dash of Mediterranean colour. 

Stroll between Zagreb's medieval and baroque Upper Town (where you'll find St Mark's Church) and the Lower Town filled with handsome 19th century townhouses around grand landscaped parks.

Croatia's elegant capital, Zagreb takes the best of central European traditions - particularly café culture and stately baroque architecture - and adds a dash of Mediterranean colour

Plitvice Lakes National Park is Croatia's oldest national park and also its most dramatic - 16 lakes and countless waterfalls in every shade of blue, green and turquoise flow into the rivers

MY TIP: When the temperature rises, take the bus to Lake Jarun and its sandy beaches and waterfront bars. 

BOOK IT: Seven nights at Zagreb's oldest standing hotel, Hotel Jägerhorn, from £1,000pp B&B, including flights and transfers (completelycroatia.co.uk).

Hikers' heaven in Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice Lakes National Park is Croatia's oldest national park and also its most dramatic - 16 lakes and countless waterfalls in every shade of blue, green and turquoise flow into the rivers of Plitvice Lakes National Park. 

Raised wooden walkways and tree-shaded footpaths swivel past one lake after another, some leading to the boat that takes you across the largest lake, Kozjak.

MY TIP: It can get crowded, but less so if you start at 'entrance one' and work from the upper lakes to the lower levels.

BOOK IT: An eight-day guided walking holiday featuring Plitvice Lakes National Park costs from £2,530pp departing London on September 6 including flights, accommodation, park entrance fees, most meals and transport (keadventure.com).

History galore in Split

Croatia's second city, Split, is more than just the jump the jumping-off point for ferries to Dalmatia's islands

Croatia's second city, Split, is more than just the jump the  jumping-off point for ferries to Dalmatia's islands. 

Dive into Split's ancient history by wandering the ruins of Diocletian's Palace, built in the third century AD, in the old town. 

Stroll past the café terraces of the Riva waterfront to the hilly greenery of the Marjan peninsula, criss-crossed with walking trails. 

You can take the bus to Trogir and wander around its Unesco-listed old town, set on its own tiny island. 

MY TIP: Split's bacvice beach is party central. Try the quieter coves of the Marjan peninsula. 

BOOK IT: Seven nights at Hotel Cvita in Split from £806pp B&B including flights (haystravel.co.uk).

Dramatic Omis

With the Cetina River and Canyon cutting deeply through the centre of Omiš, there are few cities along the Adriatic coast that have such a dramatic setting.

At its foot are a delightful Vene - tian-style old town and the rare sight of a wide sandy beach. 

With the Cetina river and canyon cutting deeply through the centre of Omiš, there are few cities along the Adriatic coast that have such a dramatic setting

Carry on through the river canyon for wild adventures rafting and kayaking. 

MY TIP: The zipline tour across the river canyon is stupendous - eight stages that take more than two hours to finish (zipline-croatia.com). 

BOOK IT: A seven-night group Croatia Active Family Holiday in Omiš costs from £1,195pp in July and August including B&B accommodation, four meals and activities (rafting, kayaking, canyoning, tubing). Flights extra (responsibletravel.com).

Ancient Zadar

Zadar's mix of ancient and modern makes it one of Croatia's most appealing cities. 

In just one square you find ruins of a Roman forum, Byzantine church, Romanesque cathedral and Benedictine monastery.

Stroll along the waterfront to see two audacious works of modern art: the haunting sounds of the Sea Organ and the glittering panels of Greeting to the Sun. 

Spend your days on one of the many nearby beaches or go island-hopping in the Zadar archipelago.

Zadar's mix of ancient and modern makes it one of Croatia's most appealing cities

MY TIP: Don't miss Zadar's morning food market in the old town with a huge selection of home-grown produce, cheese, meats, fish and olive oils.

BOOK IT: A three-night break at the new five-star Hyatt Regency Zadar is available from £489pp B&B, with return flights, checked luggage and car hire also included (booking.com).

Peace and parties in Hvar

Mention Hvar and many think of its reputation as a mini-Ibiza, with partygoers thronging beach clubs till the late hours. 

That's true in the summer, but look beyond the island's capital to more laidback towns and villages where you can truly relax on Croatia's sunniest island. 

Stari Grad, Jelsa and Vrboska are much more peaceful and all are surrounded by beaches, including a sandy one near Jelsa.

MY TIP: Go hiking in Unesco-listed Stari Grad Plain, where you can still see the vineyards and olive groves planted by the Greeks 2,400 years ago. 

BOOK IT: Seven nights at Valamar Amicor Resort in Stari Grad from £859pp half-board including flights and transfers (firstchoice.co.uk).

Mention Hvar and many think of its reputation as a mini-Ibiza, with partygoers thronging beach clubs till the late hours. That's true in the summer, but look beyond the island's capital to more laidback towns and villages where you can truly relax on Croatia's sunniest island

Famous Brac Beach 

Brac is Dalmatia's largest island, but it will be forever known as the home of Croatia's most famous beach - the V-shaped Zlatni Rat on the southern coast near Bol. 

There's more to see, though, including the pretty villages of Sutivan, Milna and, especially, Pucišca on the northern coast.

MY TIP: If you can't face the hike, drive to the top of Vidova Gora, the highest point in Dalmatia, and take in the views.

BOOK IT: Seven nights' all-inclusive at Gava Waterman Milna Resort from £721pp including flights and transfers (tui.co.uk).

Enchanting Cavtat

The last major town before you hit the Montenegrin border, Cavtat is an excellent alternative to busy Dubrovnik just up the coast. 

Set within the bays between a two-pronged, forested peninsula, it's an enchanting place of Venetian stone houses, pebbly beaches, pine-shaded walking trails and a pleasingly chilled-out atmosphere. 

The last major town before you hit the Montenegrin border, Cavtat is an excellent alternative to busy Dubrovnik just up the coast

MY TIP: It's an easy boat trip if you want a day out in Dubrovnik, and even cheaper if you take the bus. 

BOOK IT: Seven nights at Hotel Croatia Cavtat from £690pp room only including flights (britishairways.com).

Rugged and remote Vis

One of Croatia's furthest-flung islands is still quite quiet despite being in the limelight after it stood in for Greece in the Mamma Mia! sequel. 

Take in the relaxed atmosphere of Venetian-style Vis town and Komiža, and join one of the boat excursions to the blindingly Blue Cave in the neighbouring island of Biševo. 

MY TIP: Vis has one of Croatia's most beautiful beaches, Stineva, a rugged spot behind two curving cliffs. 

BOOK IT: A seven-night activity holiday costs from £1,060pp including accommodation, most meals, activities (kayaking, cycling, paddle boarding, yoga) and transfers from Vis town; flights and ferries to Vis town extra (wearactive.com).

Šibenik's waterfall wonders 

Better known as the gateway to the waterfalls of Krka National Park, Šibenik deserves a longer look at its Venetian old town and Unesco-listed St James's Cathedral

Better known as the gateway to the waterfalls of Krka National Park, Šibenik deserves a longer look at its Venetian old town and Unesco-listed St James's Cathedral. 

A labyrinth of narrow marble lanes holds tiny family-run restaurants and bars, with more along the convivial Riva waterfront and towards the city beach.

MY TIP: A combined ticket gets you into all three impressive hilltop Venetian forts looming over the city (tvrdjava-kulture.hr).

BOOK IT: Seven nights at D-Resort from £1,308pp B&B, including flights on May 15 and transfers (jet2holidays.com).

Slow down in Solta 

Solta sits in full view of Split's Riva waterfront, yet it's often bypassed in favour of Brac and Hvar. 

Do so, however, and you're missing out on a slow-paced island of pebbly coves, cute fishing villages, acres of olive groves (making prize-winning oils) and vineyards producing Solta's indigenous red dobricic wine.

MY TIP: Check out the beaches along the jagged southern coast, including Tatinja and Stracinska. 

Solta sits in full view of Split's Riva waterfront, yet it's often bypassed in favour of Brac and Hvar

BOOK IT: Seven nights self-catering in three-bedroom Villa Racquel in Necujam cost from £5,478. It sleeps up to eight and features an outdoor pool. Flights are extra (oliverstravels.com).

Don't miss Dubrovnik

Yes, Croatia's biggest tourist attraction does get overwhelmed during the summer months, but its beauty really is captivating. 

Walk the city walls for intimate glimpses into daily life among the pedestrianised old town's medieval, Renaissance and baroque palaces and townhouses, while taking glorious views of the Adriatic.

Relax on the big expanses of beaches along the Lapad and Babin Kuk peninsulas north of the old town.

MY TIP: Escape the crowds on a day trip to the tiny island of Lokrum, only a 15-minute boat ride from the old port.

BOOK IT: Seven nights at Hotel Bellevue from £1,528pp B&B including flights and transfers (inspiringtravel.co.uk).

And what to avoid... 

Croatia's biggest tourist attraction does get overwhelmed during the summer months but its beauty really is captivating

Timing is everything in Croatia. It's not so much a case of avoiding places, but periods. 

The busiest months are July and August: Split's waterfront gets clogged with island-hopping passengers waiting for ferries; Dubrovnik is an even greater heaving sea of people than usual; Hvar town is swamped with partygoers getting fined for bad behaviour.

The island of Pag normally has more sheep than people, but summer brings huge numbers to massive beach parties and outdoor nightclubs in Novalja and Zrce. 

Head to quieter Pag Town for a bit of peace. The shoulder season months of May, June, September and October are preferable if you can travel at those times.

Mary Novakovich is author of My Family and Other Enemies: Life and Travels in Croatia's Hinterland, published by Bradt Travel Guides.