The article details the difficulties faced in developing sustainable alternatives to plastic-based materials in the fashion industry, focusing specifically on the production of plastic-free leggings. It emphasizes the complexity of replicating the performance and quality of synthetic lycra using bio-based materials.
A key point is the crucial role brands play in scaling up sustainable innovations. The article highlights the need for brands to invest in and support the development of eco-friendly materials to overcome challenges related to cost, availability, and scale. Without this brand investment, innovators bear significant risk.
Several examples illustrate this point, such as Orta’s collaboration with Agolde and Pili on bio-based indigo dye, facing initial setbacks but eventually succeeding through perseverance. Another example is Under Armour's commitment to developing plant-based stretch fibers, aiming to launch a marketable product within two years.
The article argues that collaboration across the supply chain is vital for scaling up elastane-free solutions. Amanda Johnston, from the Future Fabrics Expo, points out that the industry's reliance on petrochemicals remains substantial, even with some adoption of recycled fibers. She stresses the need to move beyond the fast-fashion model that prioritizes the cheapest materials, advocating for a more level playing field for sustainable producers.
Under Armour's strategy to launch a limited-edition sustainable collection, while aiming to eventually offer sustainable products at a comparable price and quality to their conventional offerings, serves as an example of a brand navigating sustainability and commercial viability.
Overall, the article underscores the significant hurdles and opportunities present in creating plastic-free alternatives for fashion, emphasizing the importance of brand investment, supply-chain collaboration, and a shift away from unsustainable practices in the pursuit of a more eco-conscious industry.